Duct, duct, goose!

I'm glad I'm not Mrs. Cheapo, because my husband is insisting on metal ductwork for the house which is the most expensive way to go for your HVAC (Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning) ductwork. My husband, the typical Swede, is so quality driven that he absolutely insists upon it.

From what I've learned, there are a few good reasons. We talked to several geothermal, HVAC consultants and took a couple of classes where they have said the same thing - Metal ducts are better. Metal ductwork lasts longer, is easier to clean, doesn't get particle buildup as easily as flex duct and the air flows better (less possibility for restricted airflow, which causes A/C inefficiency!). A/C usage and inefficiency accounts for a lot of Texan's house bills, so this is pretty darn important. You must insulate the metal ducts on the exterior to keep it from sweating if it's cool air or losing its temperature if it's heat. The only disadvantage I can see besides the expense, is that there have been cases where sound travels through the metal ducts to other parts of the house. There are solutions to fix this (duct liners), but I don't know what that does to the efficiency of the ducts (which will defeat the purpose of the metal ducts!).

The alternative has been to get flexduct (the most common in new homes) or fiberglass ducts (made with a rigid fiberglass duct board). The advantage is that it's way cheaper and already insulated. The problem that occurs is that flexduct bends, restricting airflow and being a lot more inefficient. They can also bust open (some guy found a little rat's family home in one once!EWWWWWW) if little critters can get in, and they are difficult to clean.

Also, you will want to clean your ducts periodically, as there is always a danger of getting fiberglass particles, mold or dust in the ductwork. You do NOT want to breath fiberglass, as that is super dangerous to your lungs, which is why you always need a mask when putting in batt (fiberglass) insulation. With metal ducts, it is easier to clean very thoroughly with a brush. Another tip is that if you are sealing your ducts, always use MASTIC tape not DUCT tape, as mastic tape is better quality and does not wear out as easily as duct tape.

Metal ductwork will cost us about $4,000-5,000 more than using flexduct or fiberglass. But again, my husband says it's worth it! (*sigh*). I guess we're going to have to wait a little longer to get another car :-).

Localvores... a growing trend that's good for us

With all the talk of building and buying green, how about eating green? There's a growing trend (or maybe I'm just late) of people who only want to buy local or nearby food and produce. They are called "localvores".

According to a Canadian researcher named Vicky Blatt, "If you’re buying green, you should consider the distance food travels. If it’s travelling further, then some of the benefits of organic crops are cancelled out by the extra environmental costs."

We try to buy at minimum 90% organic, to make sure that we're not putting dangerous chemicals in our bodies, but this localvore concept adds a whole other layer of awareness that's important too. According to localvores.org and the guy's relentless research, organic produce is "racking up" more miles than conventional produce in many cases.

So, what do you do? Whatever you can, really. Awareness is always the first step. Read signs in your produce department and buy things in your state as much as possible. It supports the local farmers, economy, and reduces your carbon foot print. What better way? Also, if possible, try to get at least these fruits/veggies as organic, as they are the most pesticide ridden of the bunch. Known as the Dirty Dozen, conventionally grown peaches, apples, sweet bell peppers, celery, nectarines, strawberries, cherries, pears, imported grapes, spinach, lettuce and potatoes contain the highest levels of pesticides, according to the Environmental Work Group (EWG), a nonprofit research organization in Washington, D.C.

Also, try going to your local farmer's market! They are a joy to go to, reminiscent of how people used to shop in the old days. Produce is fresher and mostly organic. We have 3 great farmer's markets here in Austin where they sell other wares, baked goods, hormone-free, grass-fed meat, raw or low pasteurized milk, cheeses, as well as the vegetables at usually way less than Whole Foods (in Austin, where they were founded, there's a local motto for them, "Whole Foods, for the healthy and the wealthy").

Besides making our own garden for our consumption, there's still something you can do to be as green as you can!

And something interesting to know for you carnivores, have you ever tried grass-fed meat? I'm a foodie, and its out of this world. You see, cows by nature like and want to eat grass. That's what they are supposed to eat until farmers started feeding them grains and hormones to fatten them up. Cattle aren't even designed to eat grains (who knew!) and also aren't supposed to be fat creatures! Look at these lean guys.

Even organic meat isn't as tasty. Because even though they are eating organic grain feed, it's still GRAIN FED. And not only that, grass-fed meat has more Omega-3 fat and is naturally more lean too! I just made tacos with grass-fed ground beef, and couldn't believe the taste difference.

The best would be to get grass-fed, no hormone/antibiotic free beef. Trust me, you'll never go back. More information on grass-fed beef, go here.

Understanding what a geothermal system is...

As you can see from our green features list, we are going to use a geothermal heat pump for the heating and cooling of our house, as well as for our swimming pool. It is an extremely effective system that can be up to 2.5 times more efficient than a normal HVAC 12 seer system and uses very little electric. Add that to an air tight, well insulated SIP home, and you'll save yet even more money on cooling your home, probably 75-80% of what a stick frame/batt insulated/regular HVAC home would do.



There is one guy we talked to, J.D. Holt, who owns a 1650 sf SIP home in Austin, TX with a geothermal system to cool his house. In the summertime he pays about $60/month without being conservative with airconditioning. That is rather significant!

In Austin, there are only a handful of geothermal subs that can install geothermal. It is also a very effective system in cold weather climates. In Sweden, it is commonly used for heating, especially large apartment complexes.

At first, I had a hard time truly understanding the science behind a geothermal system and even harder to time to explain it to other people. :-) I copied a Geothermal FAQ from one of the subs we're considering as well as included a link to a video presentation:

http://www.aetinc.us

Q: What is a geothermal heat pump?
A: A Geothermal Heat Pump is an electrically powered heating air conditioning system that uses the natural heat storage ability of the earth. In Texas the ground temperature 6 foot down stays a constant 68 to 72 degrees.

Q: How does it work?
A: Like any type of heat pump, it simply moves heat energy from one place to another. Your refrigerator works using the same principle. By using the refrigeration process, a Geothermal heat Pump removes the heat from the home and transfers it to the ground.

Q: How is heat transferred between the earth and the home?
A: The earth has the ability to absorb and store heat energy. To use that stored energy, that constant 68 to 72 degrees temperature is extracted from the earth through a liquid medium (water) and is pumped to the heat pump or heat exchanger. In the winter, the heat is used to heat your home. In the summer, the process is reversed and indoor heat is extracted from your home and transferred to the earth throughout the water.

Q: You mentioned heating and cooling. Does it do both?
A: One of the things that make a heat pump so versatile is its ability to be a heating and cooling system in one. You can change from one mode to another, just like you do on a conventional heating and air conditioning system via a thermostat.

Q: What types of loops are available?
A: There are 2 main types of loops: open and closed. The closed loop is the most common in Texas. The same water is circulated throughout the entire system. An open loop is used when a water table, such as a river, lake or a pond is used for the water source.


Q: Which loop system is best, open or closed-loop?
A: The net results in operating cost and efficiency are virtually the same. It all depends on whether you have an adequate groundwater supply and means of disposal.

Q: Where can the loop be located?
A: That depends on land availability and terrain. Most closed-loops are drilled vertically about 250 to 300 feet deep. One hole per ton of air conditioning and about 4 1/2 inches in diameter.

Q: How many pipes are in a hole?
A: Actually, two. Polyethylene pipe in the 3/4 inch (one inch in South Texas) size, one down, a short over, then back up. Then the hole is almost filled with a type of grout called bentonite. This acts like a radiator in the ground for heat extraction and rejection.

Q: how long will the loop pipe last?
A: About 50 to 75 years. Polyethylene is inert to chemicals normally found in soil and has excellent heat conducting properties. PVC pipe should NEVER be used under any circumstances.

Q: How efficient is a geothermal heat pump?
A: Geothermal heat pumps are more than 3 times as efficient as the most efficient gas furnace, and more than 2 1/2 times more efficient than a 12 SEER air conditioner.

Here's a video presentation that will give you a visual on how it works:
http://www.heizung-waermepumpe.de/en/this-is-how-a-heat-pump-functions/heat-pump-principle/functionality.html

Picking subs and feeling the housing crunch...

We're still picking the subs (aka subcontractors) for our house project, and it's not as easy as one thinks. You shouldn't always pick the cheapest, as I've heard time and time again. So, what are my tips so far?

- Always rely on your conversation with the sub. I have found that not only do I use my gut instinct to see who I like to work with, but I also like to get an idea of how the sub thinks. I try to see if he (sorry ladies, 99% of them are Hes) think outside the box or is open to new methodologies (like anything green!), that scores a lot of points with me. You know, great minds think alike :-)... my hubby is pretty darn smart, and he can usually tell when a guy is bluffing with the tech stuff and if the sub can understand what we want to accomplish. In the end, we usually will think he is worth the extra bucks if he's of sound mind.

- Follow the "He's just not that into you" tip. If the sub doesn't seem that enthused over your project, then I think they wouldn't put as much extra effort or give you any innovative tips. It's definitely a turn off to work with people who don't have interest in what you want to do. Also, it's always nice when they have the same sense of style as you. Most of our subs we chose like the modern style and want to do something different from a conventional home.

- Always check the LAST THREE references. Any hesitation on the part of getting these references is a huge red flag. I got one "excuse" the other day from a sub who said that those references probably aren't living in those houses any longer and that he didn't have any contact with them. He avoided giving me their contact information, so it lead me to believe that there was something wrong.

- Beware of rushed, impatient or temperamental people, whether with you or with other people. Your sub's emotions are contagious. If he is stressed and angry, it will make you stressed and angry. We have found that even-keeled, patient and calm people are what make your project easy to deal with and harmonious. We lucked out. All of the guys we have talked to so far seem helpful, patient and jovial. That's what you need when you are creating your baby.

- If someone's a LOT more expensive, compare bids by seeing how much detail is in them. Usually, the person with the most detail is probably the most accurate bidder and won't shock you in the end. Therefore, it is less likely you'll be surprised with a change order or additional costs. If someone is cheap, make sure you get him to detail what is included in his quote, that way you know what you're comparing.

- Check his response time. If he responds in a reasonable amount of time or responds to all your messages, then it's a good sign. Otherwise, you should really ask yourself if he's flaky now, what about when the building starts?

- Realize that you're a "one home" show and he may prioritize a bigger home builder over you. If this is the case, I would be cautious of working with him. Make sure you feel like you're taken care of! You're important too, as you have a mouth that can spread the word!

I've got more probably, but I can't think past these. Also, lately I have been feeling the housing crunch as more and more subs are calling me instead of me chasing THEM around. This is good, as I can get more competitive bids. The only thing is the cost of transportation (thanks to oil prices) and materials have gone up significantly, even though labor is easier to come by.

Hope this helps. I know some new owner builders are nervous about this whole thing, but it's nothing too difficult.

Budget meeting and the next step... financing!

I just updated our budget for those curious eyes who want to see how the costs are stacking up. Well, they stacked up pretty high, but that's how it goes with green building! Anyway, tomorrow, we are meeting with U Build It to go over this budget and make any tweaks and adjustments. They have a list of subs that we may go with in exchange for ones we have gotten bids for. Also, we went through this spreadsheet for any line items we can do ourselves (marked DIY). For example, painting came in at about $3,400 labor only, but we opted to do this ourselves. The cost of paint can also vary depending on what you get, but we are getting the No VOC paint, so we want to select it ourselves.

The hard part was trying to find and budget for all the little stuff, which can add up! For example, door hardware, tiles, track lights, etc - you would put it in the spreadsheet as allowances, because you don't know exact costs just yet. You just need to be a good shopper.

The next step is to find financing for the construction of our house. Because we are owner builders going through U Build It, we have limited choices as to who will finance us since we need to get a construction loan first and then it will convert to a mortgage loan. We are trying to do a Loan to Value ratio so that we can get 100% financing. Here's how we will do it (simplified version, as I'm not a Finance person :-)):

1) Once the bidding is done, you have to choose the subcontractors you want to go with and input their costs in a budget spreadsheet.
2) This budget spreadsheet will be simplified by consolidating some line item costs for the lender to view the costs.
3) The lender needs the budget, all the architectural plans, your credit history and income to appraise your house and determine a construction loan amount that they can offer.
4) In order to get 100% financed, the total costs should be at minimum 80% of the appraised value of the house and lot. For example, to get a construction loan of $480,000, your house and lot needs to be appraised at least $600,000 by the lender's appraiser to get 100% financing.

The tricky part is to get an appraiser that can appreciate and not undervalue green building methods, as they are more expensive up front. Also, they have to realize that you save money in the long run. This is probably our greatest fear right now, that our appraisal won't come in at a sufficient amount, but we think we'll make it! Our lot has appreciated a great deal and we will do a lot ourselves, so I want to stay positive!!!

Getting green building certified

The Austin Green Home Meetup group (of which I'm no longer the organizer, due to my crazy schedule) passed this information to me. There is now a way to become "Green Builder Certified". The Green Builder College is offering online courses for homebuilders and . Here's a snippet from their site:

"Green Builder® College is an educational program focused on one of today’s most pressing questions: What is Green Building?

While green building rating systems throughout the country have done an excellent job of certifying building projects, Green Builder® College is the first educational program to offer certification and continuing education to individuals in the homebuilding professions. This program augments the information provided in existing project rating programs so homebuilders and their employees can learn the science behind high-performance, resource-efficient construction."

Building in art in your home

It's been awhile, but I've been swamped with work as a Tech Writer, building our house, and also working the Keep Austin Bizarre Christmas Bazaar selling my Scandinavian wares. It's been slow sometimes, but I'm sure it will pick up! Besides, everyone here is so friendly and fun, so we're really enjoying ourselves. There's a lot of unique gift items and stuff for the house.

Anyway, I've talked to a couple of vendors here that would be interested in doing some art projects for our house. For instance, we wanted some art of different mediums that would really make our place look like an art gallery. This guy, Darren Minke, said he could integrate these lovely stained wood pieces into our walls to give it a very unique look.


And here's a sample of his digital artwork:


Another artist that speaks to me is Rassouli, who makes very positive and spiritual images of women. I love his use of color and the radiance his paintings evoke to me. Here is a couple of samples of his work:


Also, I found a guy that will make some outdoor benches for us here in cedar mixed with some very cool New Mexican tiles :-). It will be certainly eclectic and interesting.

I think it's always great to surround yourself with art or objects you love and admire, as it brightens your home and your spirits!

P.S. I am taking it easy until '08 before beginning up again on the house. It will be crazy busy with everything during the holidays.... talk to you next year and have a happy holidays!

Thinking outside the building box, some sources

My hands have been on this keyboard for 100s of hours now, researching these last details of our house. Since most of the materials, applications and fixtures are not normally used in residential applications, I've had to swim through oceans of information to find these items with the help of my architect. Jan says that most of the residential norms are crap, so we HAVE to research every little corner and crevice for the ultimate THING. Most of the stuff we want has primarily been used in the commercial sector or green building, and as Ted says, it's because those things are built to last and simply are better (sigh!)... so here we go, I am freakin' tired, but am grateful that the Internet was invented in my lifetime.

First, insulation. Yes, we are using SIPs for most everything. But because our 2nd story cantilevers (overhangs) out above our pool, we have to use something other than our beloved SIPs. So, Ted suggested using batt on the floor of our 2nd story overhang to save money, but now I want to look at this natural fibre insulation that's safe, environmental because their made with post-industrial waste (recycled blue jeans!) and they are good quality for not too much money. The advantage is that even though they are more expensive per square foot ($0.39/sf batt insulation vs. $0.89-1.09/sf natural fibre insulation), you will save in labor costs because batt has to be stapled in and handled with care because of the itch and fiberglass irritation. This stuff can be put in by hand and don't need to be stapled in, so they are quickly installed and safe to handle as you can see with the baby below.

I found this company:
Bonded Logic at http://www.bondedlogic.com/

I couldn't resist posting this adorable photo:


Then on to ventilation ducts. We learned of a system that removes humidity from our bathrooms that can be planned with fewer punctures through our roof because they share the same vent to the outside. They are quieter & better designed so that you can control 2 or more bathrooms with the same ventilation duct.

Here's some information on them:
Fantech at http://www.fantech.net
and there's even this nifty timer that can clock the amount of time the vent fan should run (it's recommended that you run it for at LEAST 20 min after a shower):



As for our roof, since we're doing rainwater collection, we had to find an application that would make our flat roof design safe for drinking water. It had to be both ANSI/NSF Standard 61 approved and be able to waterproof our flat roof. We found ONE solution! It's called Hydrostop, and it's mostly used in commercial buildings.


Also, under our stucco, we had to find a plastic rainscreen that will draw water out so that it drains down in channels called Mortairvent. It is not commonly found in stucco applications, but of course we had to have it :-). According to the website, "Current construction designs call for manufactured stone directly against the metal lathe, which is placed against the plywood sheathing and housewrap. This allows moisture that penetrates the exterior cladding to become trapped between the exterior cladding and interior plywood sheathing. In time, this trapped moisture will cause rotting, mold and general deterioration of the plywood sheathing. Rainscreen technology should be used to allow this trapped moisture to drain." So that's why.

Windows and doors, who knew

It's been a while since I posted due to me constantly having to attend to my bids on the house. We have been getting some extreme prices on certain subcontractors, so it's a matter of checking 2, 3 or sometimes more bids to see that you get a reasonable price! It's an art in itself.... but anyway, I wanted to post about windows and doors, since I learned more about them. I didn't realize the complexity, but they are a crucial part of the house and affect your energy efficiency, structural integrity, not to mention your personal style.

There are a number of different frame and door materials, and costs vary greatly. Our architect wanted us to get fiberglass windows (vs. wood, aluminum or vinyl) and I wanted to know why and what the differences were. Here's what I have found out:

Dimensionally Stable
Fiberglass expands and contracts at similar rate as glass (1/3rd the rate of aluminum & 1/7th rate of vinyl)

• Less torsion and stress between glass and frame in cold weather
• Reduced air leakage
• Decreased stress on locking mechanism

Thermally Efficient

• Fiberglass is an insulating material
  
• Does not require a “thermal break” as do aluminum windows
  • Even with thermal break aluminum windows not as in same category as fiberglass
    
• Does Not require steel/aluminum STIFFENERS as many vinyl windows do
  

Durability

• Fiberglass is a structural material that will maintain its strength in every climate
  • Strength allows slim sightlines – especially in the casement and awning
  • Larger glass areas
    
• Unlike wood will not rot or warp
  • With today's higher indoor humidities wood windows often rot or at least discolor from the inside
    
• Unlike vinyl will not shrink, sag or crack
  • Over time even when not painted a dark color vinyl can shrink, sag and embrittle

Although fiberglass windows and doors are not new and have been on the market for more than 20 years, they have slowly been introduced into the construction industry, due to the industry's notoriety for resisting change. The problem for us was that not all the window styles were available in fiberglass. Our second choice would be aluminum windows, but they aren't as eco-friendly because of the fact that it takes a lot of energy to produce aluminum. Vinyl windows are a lot cheaper, but then you get the warping problems detailed above. So, we have had to compromise by doing mostly fiberglass and then having certain windows in vinyl (for example, the casement windows that open like doors). Since our casements don't see sunlight (under the cantilever of our 2nd story of our house), it doesn't matter too much.

As for our doors, we are opting to do solid wood. Although we will have to probably replace or stain/paint them every so often, we wanted to keep a certain look. It's probably a small concession in the whole scheme of our green home, but I think it will be worth the extra trouble! Anyway, I finally found a cool front door and mudroom exterior door that fits our style. It wasn't easy because the internet and building supply places are FULL of those horrendously ugly beveled doors, but I guess this is a subjective topic. :-)

Here are a few pics of mid-century design doors that are made in Austin at Crestview Doors (but you can also order them online line and they deliver nationwide):



I was so happy to find these doors, as they're not too overly priced (between $1000-1500) and all the modern ones we saw were in the $6K and up range, like this fancy stainless steel door from Neoporte (which I love, but can't afford right now):



And here's a pic of our garage door that we're going to get from BP Glass Garage Doors:

Greenest building in the WORLD....

This is the highest LEED Platinum rated building on the planet, called the Aldo Leopold Legacy Center. Now for some nice news, this building uses SIPs! :-D


As if I haven't cheered loudly enough about SIPs.

"Considered by many as the father of wildlife management and of the United States’ wilderness system, Aldo Leopold was a conservationist, forester, philosopher, educator, writer, and outdoor enthusiast," according to his site.

Read about this extraordinary building at:

http://www.aldoleopold.org/legacycenter/

It uses 71% less energy than a building just built to code. That's a huge difference!

Permits approved, bids getting worked on, and more about how owner building works...

After some leg work, I got all our permits approved!!! :-) Celebrate! We can actually start building once we get our bids for the various parts of the house (foundation, framing, materials, plumbing, electrical, etc.). We have been working really hard the past 3 weeks getting our houseplans and structural engineering plans printed and distributed to all the various subcontractors. You have to be on the phone a lot and do a lot of follow up calls!

Since we are owner builders, we can opt to choose U-Build It's contractor list or get subcontractors of our own (or pick and choose which ones we want to get on our own), which is great because we can vet the people ourselves and put more money where we want to. This is the biggest advantage of being an owner builder since you can control costs and quality much more closely than if you rely on a builder to do it. I have heard horror stories of people who give too much trust in their builder and that builder turns around and cuts corners where you don't want them to. In some instances, you're paying them 20% of building costs to basically just write out checks and little more than that.

Here are the categories of contractors. You may have more or less than this list:

• Foundation
• Materials
• Framing
• Windows
• Electrical
• Structured Wiring
• Garage Doors
• HVAC
• Plumbing
• Roofing
• Roofing Supply
• Drywall
• Paint
• Cabinets
• Flooring
• Glass/Mirror
• Front Door
• Masonry/Stucco
• Stairs
• Pool builder
• Steel fabricator (for stair cable railing)
  

After getting our bids, we have to decide which subcontractors to go with, create our budget and then submit that to the lender doing our construction loan. We, by the way, haven't selected our lender. You will have to prepare documentation for your loan (called "full doc"), such as pay stubs, tax returns, stock/bonds and account/retirement statements. In today's market, you have to do "full doc" to get the best rate possible. Banks and lenders are being more stringent in lending out money than ever before.

When you owner build, part of what you pay for when you sign up with an owner builder program is the support you get when obtaining a construction loan. I believe there is a law in Texas that says that you have to be a registered builder to do your construction loan, and so that's why we had to sign up with U-Build It. The lender (whom we haven't decided on yet) will then get an appraiser to look at all our plans and do a house appraisal. Based on the house appraisal, credit history and income, we will get approved to loan a certain amount for the construction loan.

During the construction of the house, you will get guidance by U-Build It's consultants and their builder's manual on how to schedule the construction project. You write the checks, you decide the subs, and you must do daily site visits, as you are replacing the builder's (a builder is also called GC for General Contractor) Building Supervisor. You will have plenty of inspections (by the structural engineer for the slab, third party inspector, bank inspector, and owner builder inspector) at various phases of construction and THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Make sure the appropriate inspections are done at the specified time, especially before and after slab pour (your foundation). This is all detailed out in your builder's manual, which is provided to you by your owner builder program. Even if you were going with a builder, it is still good to know these details, as you need to keep an eye on your GC and make sure s/he's doing these steps. It's always good to "trust but verify" as Reagan says, probably the only good Republican quote I'll ever use :-).

It does seem like a lot of trouble, but is worth it to us, because as future home owners for our first house, we want to be totally involved, probably much more than most. It's always good to be ahead of the game, as well as always well informed, whether you go with owner builder or a GC (builder).

During construction, you are paying a higher construction loan interest on the money you draw. Usually, this term is up to 12 months. Once construction is over, your construction loan gets converted to a mortgage loan. As far as we're concerned, we want to shorten the construction as little as possible. We have been told that our house can be ready in 6 months, even faster because we are going with SIPs that can be prefabricated at the manufacturer's. That would be great, as the pool can be ready for the summer time! We hope to break ground end of November/December. As always, I'll keep you posted!

Bunch of backwards, good ol' boy contractors (ARGH!)

This is not a nice post. But, learn from my grievances. I am steamed with ContractorTalk.com. Never have I met such unprofessional, backward, good ol' boy mentality contractors that live in plastic bubbles. Don't go there, as you'll be told by a lot of unprofessional folks WRONG information. These are people that believe global warming doesn't exist, and their most famous argument "I've been working with building for 30 years, and we know better than you about building" is meritless, they only look at bottom line dollar figures, and call me a zealot because I like SIPs. They try to call you names like hippy, tree hugger because you want to see change in the industry. When all they are doing is covering up their ignorance and closemindedness with name-calling and irrational arguments.

Never have I been treated so poorly by a company site. I am very level headed and don't name call, but I was basically kicked off for having such progressive views in building. These guys will try to talk homebuilders out of building green because they don't understand these green concepts or they will say they'll do it cheaper going stick built. It is a very very closed minded, conservative way of living, which I highly disapprove of. It's either take the bus or stay behind, and there's a big ass group of them back there picking their teeth and holding their precious dollars until their hands bleed.

Industries change and improve, and these people will never understand that. These people are afraid of progress and don't want to even investigate improvements in methods. They would rather be stuck in their own little worlds, defending themselves with their semi-automatics and sit on top of their precious tax money. They don't invest in their surroundings. They say bottom line, you have to pay more. Well, I always look at it as a living investment not just what I save NOW. I believe you have to pay for the society you want to live in, not let everything go haywire around you while you live in your gated community with guns under your pillows. Jan and I are wealthy beyond the $ signs, with a consciousness of both our wellbeing and society's wellbeing, and that's much more important than fending for yourself and keeping your money.

And this infuriates me to no end - they think "Humans first, fish and birds second" (yes, I kid you not, some Republicans in Texas actually had this slogan going against environmental rights). It pisses me off to no end how unreal their minds work and how short sighted they are about stuff happening around them.

I've actually lived in Sweden, where you have the right to camp/travel across all natural areas (even people's backyards), free health care, free college tuition, free school lunches to highschool, child stipends, 1 year maternity leaves (with 80% of your pay during this period), and where I gave 40% to taxes. However, I have never been so stressless and relaxed as I was there. People don't worry as much about money and health as they do here. Besides, you pay your money to SOMEONE here in the U.S., if not to taxes. I know for a fact that health insurance can cost $1000/month for a family of 4, and that's a lot of money! Please don't give me the "high taxes" excuse BS, I know how that works since I lived in both worlds!

Whew... I had to rant, and since this is my blog, I guess I can say what I want. I don't normally talk politics on here, but it has a lot to do with your life here in the U.S., and I have pretty strong beliefs. Ahh, I feel better now! :-)